A Short (and Surprisingly Saucy) History of the Handkerchief

A Short (and Surprisingly Saucy) History of the Handkerchief

From humble beginnings to status symbols, romantic tokens, and powerful political tools, the history of the handkerchief is surprisingly rich—and yes, even a little bit sexy. Read on to discover Queen Elizabeth’s famously "saucy" hanky drama and how the suffragettes stitched their defiance into a simple cloth.


Ancient Origins: More Than Just a Nose Wiper

In ancient Rome, handkerchiefs (called "sudarium") were not just for sneezes—they waved these cloths to kick off exciting events like chariot races. Then, spectators would wave their own hankies in excitement, turning the humble hanky into a tool of communal celebration. And over in ancient China, hankies appeared as early as 1000 BC, offering protection from sun and dust. 


Medieval Hankies: Knights, Love, and Chivalry

By the Middle Ages, hankies weren’t just practical—they became tokens of romance and good luck. Knights proudly tied handkerchiefs from their beloved to their helmets before riding off into battle. Talk about wearing your heart on your... helmet?

"A knight would tie a lady's handkerchief to the back of his helmet as a remembrance and token of good luck." — HankyBook


Renaissance Fashionistas: Status and Embroidery Galore

Fast forward to the Renaissance, and handkerchiefs took a stylish turn. European traders brought back peasants’ headscarves from China, and suddenly these humble cloths became trendy fashion statements. Portraits from the Renaissance often show aristocrats flaunting lace-edged, intricately embroidered hankies.

Handkerchiefs grew so prized that they were included in dowries and even passed down in wills. Losing a hanky was big news—literally, mentioned in local publications!

Initially, handkerchiefs came in all sorts of shapes—square, round, rectangle, or even triangular—until King Louis XVI of France stepped in. In 1785, he defined the hanky as strictly square-shaped, establishing the format we all know today. Eventually, handkerchiefs grew so extravagant and large that King Louis XVI also declared nobody's hanky could exceed his own royal-sized cloth. (Source: Cowper & Newton Museum, Heroes, Heroines, and History)


 

Dropping the Hanky: The OG Tinder Swipe

Long before smartphones and swiping right, there was a much simpler way to signal interest—the subtle art of "dropping your hanky." In Victorian times, social norms were strict, especially for women wanting to make the first move. Enter the handkerchief, a discreet yet daring flirting tool. A lady would casually "accidentally" drop her hanky near a gentleman she fancied. If he picked it up and returned it, voilà—a socially acceptable meet-cute! Dropping your hanky was truly the original Tinder swipe.

"A lady would 'accidentally' drop her handkerchief before a passing man, and if he were gentlemanly, he would pick it up to return it to her. Thus, a lady might meet a handsome stranger when it was otherwise socially unacceptable for her to do so." — Francesca Pennell, The Cor Chronicle


Queen Elizabeth’s Secret Language (and Court Drama!)

Speaking of classy, Queen Elizabeth I took hankies to a whole new level. She cleverly used her embroidered handkerchiefs to secretly communicate with courtiers and servants at court. A subtle wave could mean everything from "Bring me wine" to "Enough with this boring conversation!" Queen Elizabeth basically invented the first text messaging.

Elizabeth wasn't just sending silent signals—she had plenty of hanky drama too. On one memorable day, while watching two courtiers playing tennis, one grabbed her hanky to mop his sweaty brow. This move was seen as scandalously flirty and "too saucy" by the other courtier, sparking a fight right there on the court. Even royalty wasn’t immune to hanky-related drama! (Source: Cowper & Newton Museum)

William Shakespeare wasn’t immune to the drama of the hanky either. In his play Othello, the handkerchief is a symbol of love and loyalty—until it goes missing. When Desdemona loses the hanky Othello gave her, he takes it as proof of her betrayal. Spoiler: it doesn’t end well.


Suffragettes: Power in a Pocket Square

The handkerchief also found its way into politics. During the early 1900s, imprisoned British suffragettes embroidered their names onto a linen handkerchief in a bold act of defiance and solidarity. Known as the "Suffragette Handkerchief," it carried 66 signatures of brave women jailed for their activism. This wasn't just a hanky—it was a powerful political statement stitched into history. 

 


20th Century: From Decline to Revival

With disposable tissues popping onto shelves, hankies took a hit in popularity. But lately, thanks to growing sustainability movements, and perhaps Tony Soprano, fresh appreciation for the timeless classic, and some fun new versions like those of yours truly, they're making a comeback. But don’t just believe us, read what the cool kids say:

"Handkerchiefs are more durable and versatile... serving not only personal hygiene but various practical purposes." — Wired.com


Join the Gang & make the hanky yours 

At Hanky Gang, we're proudly reviving this storied accessory. Our organic, unbleached cotton handkerchiefs celebrate tradition and sustainability. Plus, every hanky you snag plants a tree—because sustainability is always in style.

From chariot races to royal courts, from medieval knights to revolutionary women, the handkerchief has always been way more than just a cloth. It's history, it's fashion, and now it's your turn to join the story. 

Ready to make your mark? Welcome to the Gang.

PS: Let us know your favorite way of using your hanky and we might feature your idea(s) in our upcoming list: 99 ways to use your hanky.


Further Readings

If you've enjoyed our little abstract on the saucy history of the hanky, you might enjoy our selection of further readings on the topic below:

Click here to read a well written article on the handkerchief from the archives of The Guardian from 1923

Click this link to read a wonderful history on the hanky written by the girls from Cocoon Patterns, who make beautiful patterns based on costume history

Hanky Book, which also offer an innovative and fun way to adopt the hanky lifestyle, wrote a great history of the hanky as well. You can read it here.

Novelist Marie Davis wrote a very entertaining and touching piece on the hanky's illustrious past for Heroes, Heroines and History. Click here to enjoy it.

We will be continue our series of fun and interesting facts about the hanky's past, present and future, so do connect with us on Instagram or Facebook to stay connected.

 

Sources

 

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